Overland in Lesotho, a completely independent country, completely surrounded by South Africa. The country has been independent from the British since 1966. The surface is about 30.000 km2, about three-quarters of the Netherlands. We will come during our by land travel in via the capital Maseru in the west. Two things are immediately noticeable. The friendliness of the people seems endless. We are waved at from all sides and provided with useful advice and information. We see no other white people. The population seems to consist solely of original tribes.
As you are used to from us, you start by watching the video. Will you travel with us?
In Lesotho we think back to West Africa. Just like there, people mostly live on the streets. Everywhere men, women and children walk along the road and you see sales stalls with a variety of products. About 90% of the almost 2 million inhabitants are Christian and they have their own currency, the Loti. This is also equal to the African Rand.
Unfortunately, the country has little export. There are diamond mines, but the proceeds hardly reach the local population. About 60% of the people live below the poverty line.
Lesotho consists for the most part of breathtaking high mountain landscapes. The country is therefore often called “Kingdom in the sky”. From the first contact we feel that Lesotho is a hidden gem. “Off-the-beaten-track” we might say.
A chat on the road
When we are on the road and we can have a chat with a local, we grab it with both hands. On the road we see many people walking on their way to school, work or just hanging out.
It is nice and striking that people here wear blankets all day long against the cold. Just blankets that we sleep under. As a replacement for a coat. Young and old, poor and rich walk around with them. In the fields farmers are working with the last corn harvest or are already busy preparing the land for the next season.
For example, right next to the road, a farmer is busy “picking” corn kernels from the cob. An essential labor-intensive job. The cornmeal that is made from the kernels is a staple of the daily diet. The farmer loves to tell about his life and visibly appreciates our interest.
But it is clear from everything that there is no luxury. Everything that is eaten, they have actually grown themselves, they are largely self-sufficient. He has a new project… a few rabbits. He wants to breed them but does not yet know if he wants to eat them himself or sell them at the market. For the time being he complains bitterly that the food is so expensive. In addition to growing corn, he also has a donkey, a few cows and goats.
Thaba Bosiu, cultural village
This open-air commercial establishment tells the story of the origins of Lesotho. On the “plateau”, the flat mountain next door, many battles took place, but in the end the native population won.
We get a tour by a very nice guide. In addition to the outdoor performances, there is also an indoor museum.
The park-like grounds have a theatre, restaurant and various accommodation options. We ask if we can also stay overnight. And that is possible... everything is done to give us a pleasant stay.
A nice lawn. And a little further on we can use a shower.
We thought the visit was worthwhile, especially if you are just entering the country and are interested in some background information.
Come dwelling caves (cave dwellings)
We continue our journey through Lesotho to the Kome caves. We have no idea what awaits us, but we understand that we can spend the night there.
The drive there is beautiful in any case. The last kilometer is quite challenging via a steep rock road, absolutely impossible with a normal car.
In the middle of the locals is a reception building and a grass field where we can spend the night. These kind of places are great because it is the way to learn something of the local traditions.
Women work their asses off fetching water from the only tap in the area. Men here too wear the traditional blankets against the cold. Many are farmers with cattle or a piece of arable land, others go out to work. Mostly to South Africa to work in mines.
A guide takes us around the village and to the cave dwellings. The clay-plastered cave dwellings are fun to see. The guide tells us about their history. But we enjoy the contact with the villagers even more. The people are exceptionally friendly.
Maletsunyane Waterfalls
The Maletsunyane waterfalls near Semonkong are mainly known for their impressive height of 192 meters. But the surroundings in which the waterfall is located are at least as spectacular. In Lesotho we have seen a number of tourist highlights that are supported by the government. Here too, an enormous building that provides masses of tourists with a restaurant, information and a view. But visitors... no way... nobody.
We don't mind at all! Upon arrival we pay about 5 euros entrance fee and get a VIP treatment that is second to none.
We drive down a hill that is also a challenge for a 4WD, high on the wheels. Locals help us remove large rocks to finally reach one of the most fantastic wild camping spots. Right in front of the waterfall with a view into the gorge our hearts start beating faster.
As buzzards, falcons and vultures soar above and below us, we enjoy the sunset and sunrise, while the waterfall continues to thunder incessantly.
Abseiling next to the Maletsunyane Waterfalls
We move a little further to Semonkong, where the Semonkong Lodge is located. A modern lodge that forms a stark contrast with the rest of the village. There are also camping places that we use.
The accommodation offers the possibility to abseil next to the waterfall. That sounds like something for us!
That same afternoon we will receive a thorough training along a rock face with a height of about 25 meters. Practice wall.
After the guides felt comfortable taking us to the real thing, we left the next morning at 8am. We bumped for half an hour in a Landcruiser to reach the starting point at the top of the waterfall. The last bit we walked, while all our materials were carried by a horse to the magical point.
While the guides get everything ready, we enjoy the overwhelming view for a while.
Then it's time...the two of us next to each other look over the edge...if you say A, you have to say B. The two hundred and four meters below us...phew. It's the highest abseil in the world!
But once we are safely hanging in the ropes, the descent can begin. Adrenaline is rushing through our bodies! The view so stiff next to the waterfall is stunning. We scream it out!
The spray from the waterfall makes us quite wet on the last part, but that doesn't spoil the fun.
After fifteen minutes we are down and are awaited by one of the guides. We climb out of the gorge again, get rid of the harnesses and are a huge experience richer. We would never have wanted to miss this!
Sehlabathebe National Park
From our waterfall adventure we continue to Sehlabathebe NP. A beautiful, newly paved road leads us there. The park is situated high up and offers a place for various endemic flora and fauna. In addition, you will find a number of special rock formations.
For a song you get access and can camp wherever you want. We find a unique spot deep in the park.
On Saturday we see a group of young people, but otherwise tourism here seems to be in its infancy.
We are not lucky with the weather this time. On Sunday morning at 7 o'clock we go out to explore the area. The area is beautiful, lots of green grasses alternating with rough rock formations. Meandering rivers and swamp-like pools run through it. We even hear frogs croaking.
At first we can still shoot some nice pictures but soon it gets cloudy and it starts to drizzle. Eventually we return to the camper like drowned cats. Because the forecast for the coming days is not much better, we leave. As far as we have an impression, the national park is worth a visit!
Various mountain passes
We plan to drive the Matebeng mountain pass. But the information from various sources is contradictory.
We ask a few locals at the beginning of the pass, but we don't get any really relevant information. We hear stories about extremely narrow passages and washed away road sections. Moreover, the weather forecast is very bad.
On the way there we quickly see the condition of the road. Large boulders and washed out parts. From this it is clear that there is hardly any traffic here.
We decide to turn back.
Via, via we are pointed to another mountain pass. This one is supposedly better maintained. We are going to conquer this pass and are treated to phenomenal views in the high mountains. Even during the heavy rain it is still beautiful! We spend the night on a hilltop and wake up with a beautiful view.
On our way in this remote area we sometimes pass small settlements. The people wave enthusiastically when they see us. We stop regularly to take in the surroundings. Then we see a place where they are shearing sheep. Not with clippers, but with large scissors. Several men at the same time are stripping the sheep of their fleece, while others sort the wool by quality. Just to watch.
Horseback riding
We have arranged to meet Ian and Catherine, an English couple of overlanders. We drive together over the mountain passes and have a nice time together.
Ian suggests we go horse riding…mmm…horse riding…we’re not really into that. But okay, we can give it a shot.
On iOverlander we find possibility. We are welcomed by Joseph and Maria, a very friendly young couple. Maria works in the house and Joseph is enterprising and goes into the mountains with guests.
And so begins a fantastic adventure in the midst of the real pure life of the people in the mountains. The five of us mount the horses, which are very willing and tame. At first we still go over a path, but later also climb and descend via steep slopes. The horses are very strong, we are surprised about that, but trust them completely. We pass remote villages that can only be reached by horse or donkey. Farmers are busy ploughing their land with sometimes six cows in front of their single-furrow ploughs. The peace and relaxation together with the horses is overwhelming.
Around noon we have lunch on the banks of the Orangeriver, while the horses can graze for a while. The river is quite wild and brown from the sand that has been swept along, it has rained quite a bit the last few days.
Around mid-afternoon we arrive in a remote village where a family provides a rondavel (a round house with a thatched roof) to spend the night. Four thin mattresses lie on the floor. A floor of mud mixed with dried manure. Blankets should keep us warm here tonight.
In the meantime, the lady of the house is busy preparing dinner. She makes delicious traditional dishes for us, which we will taste in the evening.
In the morning the rooster crows early and after a filling breakfast we leave again in the same scenery towards Joseph's house, where his wife Maria has prepared lunch again. We look back on a fantastic adventure and only have to deal with some muscle pain from the horse riding.
We do that the next day while we conquer the Sani pass, the border crossing with South Africa, in the car on soft seats. More about this in our next story, South Africa (part 4)
Our conclusion
Lesotho, the country with the highest, lowest point. Or “Kingdom in the sky”, as it is often called, surprised us enormously.
The purity, the beauty, the incredibly friendly people...it is a privilege to travel around here. The contrast with South Africa is huge! The people have some beautiful traditions and the landscapes are phenomenal.
Tourism is still in its infancy here. For us that is great, mass tourism has not yet displaced the purity. We think that many people visit South Africa in two to three weeks and conveniently skip Lesotho. A real shame!
The government is trying to tempt tourists with a number of expensive projects, but so far without any major successes it seems. Keep it up!
