Eswatini, or actually the “Kingdom of Eswatini” probably known to few. Swaziland, better known, but no longer exists. In 2018, the king officially changed the name of the nation. Eswatini is one of the last remaining pure monarchies in the world. The country is slightly smaller than half the Netherlands and has about 1.300.000 inhabitants.
The relationship with South Africa is nice and that is a good thing, Eswatini is largely dependent on it. If only for the use of seaports, in the country that is wedged between South Africa and Mozambique.
In Eswatini they use their own currency, which is linked to the South African Rand.
1. The border crossing
From South Africa we take the border crossing with the beautiful name “Onverwacht”.
After some formalities and the stamps in our passports, we are handed a tourist brochure by the customs officer. For us, proof that tourism matters and so do we.
When entering Eswatini, the enormous sugar cane plantations stand out. Harvesting is taking place in various places and here and there we see a factory smoking where the end products are made. We sleep the first night on the banks of an artificial lake which is used for irrigation and also as a cooling water buffer for the factory right across from us.
2. Royal National Parc Hlan
We drive to the northeast of Eswatini for a visit to the country's most important game park.
It is neat and well maintained. We can spend the night at the campsite at the entrance, complete with braai, flat grass field and perfect sanitary facilities.
While the kudus and impalas frolic around us, we happily barbecue.
You can cross the park with your own vehicle, but the part where the lions are located is reserved for specially organized game drives. We decide to go out ourselves in the afternoon and see, besides the many impalas, giraffes and wildebeests.
Because lions, and especially males, have our interest, we decide to do a morning safari. Led by a guide, we go looking. It doesn't take long... two beautiful lions are relaxing right in front of the car, probably after a night hunt. Although, the guide tells us that it is mainly the females that hunt.
After taking a few photos we continue and see, besides several giraffes, impalas, kudus and wildebeests, the white rhino. A rare animal that was hunted extensively in earlier years for that one ivory tusk. But is now carefully protected and kept from extinction.
3. Swazi cultural village
Swaziland is known for its traditions and other cultural habits. And to preserve that, they have rebuilt an entire village. We take a look and are welcomed very friendly and shown around. The guide tells us about life in a typical Swazi village in the 19th century. The houses were built from “hard” grass and rope. Dance and music play an important role in Swazi culture. For example, a real theater has been built where we get a show performed by local youngsters. Beautiful!
Next to the reconstructed village is “execution rock”, the place where convicts used to have to jump down and face certain death.
Further on we visit the Mantegna waterfall. Not the highest, not the widest, but in a fascinatingly beautiful setting.
4. Mlilwane Game Sanctuary
We are starting to like Eswatini more and more. More or less by chance we end up at a game reserve not far away. We were looking for a place to stay and this seemed like something for us. The friendly welcome and the location in the picturesque valley immediately gave us the right feeling.
Here we camp again among the many animals around us, without any giraffes, lions or elephants.
We take a walk, almost intoxicated by the eucalyptus scent in the lushly vegetated hilly landscape and take pictures happily. The area is known for its many bird species.
5. Sibebe Rock (monolith)
In the west of the country, not far from the modern capital Mbabane we visit Sibebe rock. It is the third largest monolith worldwide, after Uluru in Australia and Ben Amera in Mauritania, places we visited before. (A monolith is a rock made of one stone and not built up in layers like most mountains.)
As always, we hardly know what to expect, we let ourselves be surprised.
The road to it is wonderfully beautiful with magnificent views. It turns out that Sibebe is actually included in a grand mountain landscape and therefore less noticeable as an independent mountain. In this way it differs from the other two monoliths.
It is possible to reach almost the top via a winding road.
When we get there, it turns out that a whole resort has been built, complete with bungalows, swimming pools with slides and restaurants. At the reception we ask if we can also camp there. And yes, we can, although there is no camping. On a lawn next to a bungalow. For 30,00 euros we can use the facilities of the bungalow and can also swim to our heart's content. On top of a monolith... unique!
Towards the end of the afternoon we take a walk in the area and enjoy the landscape and views. The blue sky changes rapidly into a black thunderstorm sky with many beautiful flashes. We find lightning in the mountains fantastic. We are back just in time when the rain falls in buckets.
No braai tonight, we let ourselves be pampered in the restaurant. We are the only guests and are served by a very nice waitress. While she tells extensively and enthusiastically about her country the light goes out... thunder!
There are no candles so we have to make do with the lights on our phones. Despite the power outage, they manage to prepare a delicious dinner in the kitchen.
It is more than clear to us that the service here is excellent!
6. Maguga Dam, Ngwenya glass
On the last day of our overland trip to Eswatini we make a round on winding roads, through rural areas, descending and ascending through mountainous landscapes. We chat with people along the way and enjoy ourselves to the fullest. We enjoy the views around the Maguga Dam and have a chat with the owner of the restaurant there and hear how he passionately and convincingly defends the interests of the Russians against the Americans. A little later we meet -remotely, high above the dam- an old man on crutches. He has just stepped out of a taxi bus with which he has been to the city. Armed with two spirit levels...bought for his son who wants to build a house.
On the way to the border we visit another glass factory. Here all kinds of glass objects are “blown” in a traditional way.
The used glass is collected elsewhere in the country and thus reused. There is also a restaurant and a shop where you can buy the products.
7. Eswatini, our conclusion
And so we drive to the border and look back on six wonderful days in the small country.
When we get the exit stamp, a boy rushes over with a tablet in his hand. He kindly asks us if we want to participate in a short survey about our stay. Of course!
The country is high on the list of poor countries, although we did not see it that way. The wealth that is there is mainly in the larger cities, where it often feels western. Also the remaining white descendants of the British colonists actually only live in the capital. In the countryside everything is more traditional. There you see farmers still working the land by hand and women sit along the street to sell some seasonal vegetables for a pittance.
We think it's a shame that most tourists don't take enough time to discover this gem.
