The west coast of Vancouver Island surprised us in every way. Where most travelers stay on the east coast for whales en Eggplant, on the other hand, you will find vast beaches, mysterious rainforests and a completely different atmosphere. Pacific Rim National Park was for us one of the highlights of our roadtrip through Canada.
In this article we take you to this rugged piece of nature on the Pacific Ocean. We share our favorite hikes, beaches and viewpoints, but also honest experiences about Tofino, accommodation options and the impressive drive there.
Our journey through the United States and Canada
This article is part of a large one-year tour the United States en Canada, with a Dutch 4×4 camper that we shipped ourselves… It is a bucket list worthy expats must register with the local municipality and obtain a once in a lifetime experience that will never be forgotten.
We wrote almost 100 articles about this ultimate tour. Visit our North America page for more information.
Why Pacific Rim National Park
Pacific Rim National Park is one of the few places in North America where you can hike so close to the ocean through a temperate rainforest. Imagine ancient trees, lush trails, and the scent of salt and moss in the air. Combine that with expansive sandy beaches, excellent hiking trails, and the chance of wildlife such as sea lions, whales and birds of prey, and you will understand why this park is so special.
What makes the park extra interesting is the variety in a relatively small area. In one day you can walk a trail through the rainforest, blow out on Long Beach and watch the sun set at Mackenzie Beach. And all that within a short drive of cozy towns like Ucluelet and Tofino.
The highlights
Pacific Rim is compact but diverse. You will find dense rainforests, endless beaches and wild coastlines, all within a short drive of each other. Below we list the most beautiful places and activities for you.
1. Walking in the rainforest (Rainforest Trail)
One of the most impressive experiences in Pacific Rim is a walk through the temperate rainforest. The Rainforest Trail Loop B is a must-do in our opinion. In half an hour you walk over wooden boardwalks through a fairytale forest, full of giant trees, moss and ferns.
We were amazed by the silence, the smell of damp earth and the hundreds of shades of green that create a magical atmosphere. In some places the trees are so big that you could easily live in them.
2. Long Beach & surroundings
Pacific Rim National Park is also known for its expansive coastline. Long Beach is the most famous beach, but the area actually consists of several beaches that together form an impressive whole. Think of rugged coast, soft sandy beaches, surfers and flocks of coastal birds.
Wickaninnish Beach is a beach that is largely a protected nature reserve, and you can tell by everything. Signs warn of resting areas of migratory birds that have flown thousands of kilometers (from, for example, Asia or Hawaii) to rest here.
- No drones allowed – they can disturb the birds.
- Dogs are prohibited – they also endanger the peace.
You can walk a bit on the beach here and with a bit of luck you will see whole flocks of birds skimming low over the surf. An impressive sight, especially when the sun is low.
A little further north lies Comber's Beach. Here the sand is wonderfully soft and you can take a quiet walk on the beach barefoot. We enjoyed the peace and the view of the rocky islands off the coast.
Tip: Bring binoculars – there are often sea lions lying on the rocks! You can sometimes hear them from far away by their strange barking.
3. Mackenzie Beach
North of Long Beach lies Mackenzie Beach, a popular spot for locals and travelers alike. During the day you’ll see swimmers, surfers and families here, but towards evening the beach transforms into an atmospheric spot where people gather to enjoy the sunset.
What makes Mackenzie Beach special is the calm water at low tide. When the sea retreats, a shallow sandbank with mirror-smooth water remains. This not only provides tranquility, but also beautiful reflections – perfect for photography.
Tip: Bring a folding chair or a picnic blanket and join the locals. With a cool box full of food and a cold beer, you can easily spend hours looking at the horizon. It is not without reason that photo shoots and even weddings are regularly held here.
In the area surrounding the park
Pacific Rim National Park Reserve is located right between two nice coastal towns: Ucluelet in the south and Tofino in the north. Both villages have their own charm and are definitely worth a visit. The drive there, through rainforest, mountains and along clear blue lakes, is an experience in itself. In this chapter we give you tips for nice stops and surprising places just outside the park.
1. Amphitrite Point Light in Ucluelet
On the south side of the charming village of Ucluelet there is a short but beautiful hiking trail: the Lighthouse LoopThis trail winds through the forest and along the rugged coastline, with several viewpoints along the way where you can look straight out onto the ocean.
From the benches along the path you can watch sea lions sunbathing on the rocks, or with a bit of luck see a whale appear in the distance. Especially during the migration season of the humpbacks and gray whales this is a nice place to stand still and gaze at the horizon.
At the lighthouse itself you will find information panels about the marine life and history of this coastal area. No mass tourism here, but peace, space and nature at its best.
2. The route through the mountains
The road from the east to the west coast of Vancouver Island, Highway 4, is much more than a simple connection. It is a spectacular drive through dense forests, past mirrored lakes and through mountainous terrain. This drive alone is a highlight in itself.
The road winds its way through Port Alberni towards the coast and along the way you will regularly come across viewpoints where you can stop for a while. Do so: it is worth taking your time and enjoying the scenery. You are driving through one of the few temperate rainforests in the world, so look around you carefully. You might just spot an eagle or a black bear.
Note: This is a mountain road with bends, climbs and descents. In rain or fog it can be slippery and visibility is limited. Drive slowly and plan some extra travel time.
3. Tofino
Tofino is located on a peninsula in the northern Pacific Rim and is known as the surfing mecca of Canada. In the 80s surfers and hippies flocked here en masse, and you can still feel that. The town has a relaxed atmosphere, colorful cafes, art galleries and surf shops. The location by the sea, surrounded by rainforest, completes the picture.
Tofino is in a beautiful location and is definitely worth a visit if you fancy a surf lesson, a walk along the beach or a coffee in a trendy boutique. Be aware that prices here are considerably higher than elsewhere on Vancouver Island - both camping, drinks and food. Nice for a half day, but not ideal if you are travelling on a budget or want to stay overnight.
Practical tips
A visit to Pacific Rim National Park can be easily combined with the surrounding towns of Tofino and Ucluelet. In this chapter, we share useful tips on camping, overnight stays, shopping and other practical matters – so that you are well prepared for your trip to this special part of Vancouver Island.
Entrance/ permits
Pacific Rim National Park requires a valid entrance pass. An adult day pass costs approximately CAD 11 and is available at parking meters and visitor centers in the park. Also the Park Canada Discovery Pass is valid here, which gives you access to all national parks in Canada.
Note: Unlike many other national parks, there is no entrance gate. So you will not be stopped when entering, but there will be checks at the parking lots. Make sure you place your pass visibly behind your windshield to avoid fines.
Camping in and around the park
Anyone visiting Pacific Rim with a camper will soon face a challenge. Wild camping is prohibited within the national park forbidden and Tofino and Ucluelet also have strict rules. There is even an official bylaw that prohibits overnight parking throughout the region – with a fine as a result.
There are several campsites just outside the park, for example at Tofino or Ucluelet, but expect high prices: 70 to 100 CAD per night is not unusual. These campsites often offer good facilities and are located in prime locations near the beach or in the forest.
We decided to do it differently. Through the app iOverlander we found some wild camping spots just outside the park boundaries, along road 4 towards Kennedy Lake. Here you can still 'park overnight' without risk of a fine. Not luxurious, you are standing along the road, but it is free and you are about half an hour's drive from Tofino. Perfect for those, like us, who prefer not to pay 100 dollars a night.
Accommodations
No camper? You can still enjoy Pacific Rim National Park and its surroundings. Keep in mind that the region is is popular and accommodations fill up quickly, especially in the summer months. Early reservation is therefore advisable. Below are a number of suggestions, from relatively affordable to luxurious.
- The Shoreline Tofino (stylish & small-scale)
A charming accommodation within walking distance of downtown Tofino. Quiet location on the water, nice rooms and a relaxed atmosphere. Not cheap, but good value for money for Tofino standards. - West Coast Motel on the Harbor (reasonably affordable)
Located in Ucluelet, near the harbor. Simple, but neat and clean. With shared kitchen and a pool. One of the few accommodations in the area that is still somewhat affordable, especially outside the high season. - Duffin Cove Oceanfront Lodging (romantic & peaceful)
Charming seaside lodges just outside the bustling centre of Tofino. Perfect for couples. Modern decor, ocean views and direct beach access. - Pacific Sands Beach Resort (luxury & directly on Long Beach)
One of the most popular resorts in the region, with stylish suites and villas right on the beach. Ideal for those looking for comfort, nature and tranquility. Popular with families and couples. - Hotel Zed Tofino (cheerful & quirky)
For those who love retro vibes, bright colours and a touch of something different. Hotel Zed is hip, young and creatively decorated – with a hot tub in the forest and a secret 'speakeasy' bar. Not dirt cheap, but a unique experience.
Groceries and refueling
In Pacific Rim National Park itself has no grocery stores or gas stations to be found. So make sure you refuel and stock up on supplies in time, especially if you are camping or traveling out of season.
- The best place to refuel is Ucluelet of TofinoBoth places have one gas station.
- For groceries you can go to the Co-op in Ucluelet (small, but good range) or the larger Tofino Co-op supermarket in downtown Tofino.
Tip: Especially in Tofino, prices are higher than average. If you go through Port alberni If you are coming, it is smart to do some major shopping at Walmart or Save-on-Foods.
Closing note
The west coast of Vancouver Island surprised us on all fronts. From ancient rainforests to deserted beaches, flocks of shorebirds and sunsets that make you silent. Pacific Rim National Park is a place where nature and tranquility come together.
Thanks to the nearby coastal towns of Ucluelet and Tofino, there is also plenty of variation between nature and coziness. Do plan ahead: accommodations fill up quickly in high season and are expensive. Nevertheless, we found it more than worth it. This part of Vancouver Island will not be forgotten quickly.
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